{"id":1143,"date":"2020-05-02T04:12:23","date_gmt":"2020-05-02T04:12:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1143"},"modified":"2020-05-02T04:20:59","modified_gmt":"2020-05-02T04:20:59","slug":"winemaker-series-maude-nessy-dan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1143","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker Series: Maude – Nessy & Dan"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Back to everyone’s favourite set of chats on WineFolio… A catch up we had a while back (pre-Covid-19 Lockdown) with two of the talents at Maude Wines in Wanaka.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s a beautiful summer day and I\u2019m running late \u2013 after a fantastic trip around three of the nicest places in the area, meeting wonderful people\u2026 I\u2019m racing over to the Maude Tasting room, to taste a couple of the wines I\u2019ve travelled down from Auckland to try. A lot of people say \u201chmmm, not tried it\u201d when I tell them that the top 10 NZ Chardonnay list (that lives in my head) contains a Central Otago version at no.4. I\u2019m also a devotee of their Mt Maude Pinot Noir \u2013 this is a step above the wine that won \u201cWine of the Year\u201d at the 2018 New Zealand Wine of the Year Awards \u2013 that\u2019s the Maude Pinot Noir (2017 version) \u2013 so paint a picture of how good that is in your own head (mine\u2019s full of lists of top NZ wines\u2026)<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I start off talking to Vanessa (Nessy), one of the winemakers that isn\u2019t Dan and Sarah-Kate Dineen, about the white wines, and the company in general.<\/p>

WineFolio<\/strong>: Before we start \u2013 although I love the wines, I don\u2019t really know all that much about Maude itself \u2013 can you fill me in?<\/p>

Vanessa<\/strong>: The Mt Maude vineyard is about 10kms from here at the Tasting Room, on the way to Hawea as if you\u2019re heading to the West Coast, in the Maungawera Valley. We\u2019re the only vineyard down there. It was planted by Dawn and Terry in 1994. So quite old vines for this region \u2013 the second wave of planting.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s only four hectares and it\u2019s got four varieties on it as well \u2013 so quite small production.<\/p>

SK and Dan are the owners now \u2013 they met in the Hunter Valley, and SK is Dawn and Terry\u2019s daughter. Very much a family run winery \u2013 for example, the Cellar hand is their nephew. Dan\u2019s Mum does the Admin, his Dad is in the Vineyard. SK and Dan moved back here in 2005 and built the winery \u2013 and started the Maude label. Two years ago,\u00a0Sarah Kate\u2019s sister purchased this property, and we set up the Tasting room during the day, and then it is Bistro Gentil at night.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I adore your Chardonnay, but I\u2019ve not had your other whites much?<\/p>

Vanessa<\/strong>: The dry Riesling – we make it like that because the fruit in the vineyard shows more austerity, lemon and lime, and lovely slatey characters. The East Block Riesling, just on the other side of the homestead, is made into a more off-dry Germanic style. In the vineyard it shows riper characters; citrus but apple, mandarin and it ripens slightly earlier. The dry is all whole bunch pressed, slightly oxidative handling \u2013 we let half the juice tray go brown and then add sulphur, just to try and oxidise out some of the phenolics and give a bit more longevity to the wine. Free run to stainless steel tank for a nice clean innoculated ferment, and stopping it when we think it\u2019s in balance. The East Block we foot stomp \u2013 we tip it into bins and we all jump in and stomp around on the fruit. We don\u2019t give any extended skin contact \u2013 just stomped around and into the press. Sulphur all the way \u2013 nice green juice, into stainless steel tanks. And then we\u2019re just tasting daily.<\/p>

We\u2019re quite lucky with Mt Maude as we get really natural high acidities in the Riesling, so we\u2019re normally sitting at around 2.9pH and 9-10 TA, trying to balance out that acidity really. It depends on the year \u2013 the dry usually ranges between 4-7 grams, and the East Block ranges between 30 and we\u2019ve gone up to 60. This one is 48. I love Riesling because it\u2019s very precise. You can see a lot through a Riesling.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Do you think winemaking is scientific or creative?<\/p>

Vanessa<\/strong>: I think it\u2019s both. I think you have to have a good scientific knowledge to be able to make good wine, definitely. So you understand the sulphur, the pH and the microbiology behind it all. But then you\u2019ve got to have a passion and it\u2019s definitely an art. I really love Vintage \u2013 it\u2019s exciting. Mt Maude is small enough that we normally just do one pick, but we do get fruit from vineyards throughout Central Otago that we either lease, or that we get fruit from every year. SK and Dan are out there every day and enough to know what the fruit\u2019s going to be like before it comes in and how we\u2019ll handle it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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This the last of the 2018 Pinot Gris. We ferment about 40% in old barriques to try and get a bit of texture and weight on the palate We do a little bit of lees stirring to try and get a bit of extra weight as well. And the rest of it is done in stainless steel to keep the aromatics, purity and freshness. We don\u2019t want it too over the top, we\u2019re after a nice balance. It\u2019s a long picking \u2013 we start in Lowburn that can be the beginning of April, and don\u2019t finish until mid-May in Gibbston Valley. The more delicate aromatics can stay in tank and the more robust ones from Lowburn tend to go in the barrels. Gorgeous aromatics and florals from Mt Maude and Gibbston Valley – it\u2019s a great thing to blend together. We can tell which is going to be our aromatic portions and which will be our barrel portions beforehand. Some of it is whole bunch, and a bit of this is foot stomped as well.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Why do you do foot stomping \u2013 I know it\u2019s to break the skins and let the juice sit with the skins.. but why do that specifically?<\/p>

Vanessa<\/strong>: I think we, in the early days, would crush them and keep them overnight; and we made them full of flavour and phenolics, but they fell over after three years. So we swung over to whole bunch pressing, but just didn\u2019t quite have enough. Weirdly enough sometimes the flavour comes in earlier \u2013 up the hill. We thought with a bit of foot stomping\u2026 we hand pick, let it go cold overnight, and then early in the morning spread it between the picking bins and everyone stomps it for about an hour \u2013 just about enough to get some flavour.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We do two Chardonnays \u2013 the Maude Chardonnay is our 2019 and comes from around the Cromwell basin \u2013 Bannockburn, Lowburn, and a bit from Gibbston. Not a lot of new oak but barrel fermented, in 400 litre puncheons. We think you get a better oak quality and it\u2019s a really good size. Whole bunch pressed, all wild ferment, full malo, and lees stirring until we think it looks right, and then it\u2019s sulphured \u2013 until then it\u2019s seen no sulphur at all. The lees stirring is just enough to reduce the butteriness, and until we all agree that the sample is right.<\/p>

Nessy has to run off to another blending session, and Dan<\/strong> takes over to run through the Pinots, and a ramble through more of the ethos behind Maude, and the Mt Maude vineyard.<\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Dan<\/strong>: We\u2019re blending all our \u201919 Pinots at the moment, and one of the people that make for, is Two Degrees in Queensberry which we\u2019ve made since \u201907. Their vineyard is 6 hectares and then another 4 hectares, and they make so much, then the rest comes to us. It\u2019s quite nice because we don\u2019t feel like we\u2019re stealing from them, and they don\u2019t feel like we\u2019ll pick the eyes out of the vineyard for us. They just make 800 cases a year and we\u2019ve actually won three trophies with them in \u201909, \u201914 and \u201916. We did the motherblend and we\u2019re disputing on two barrels going in and out, so that\u2019s what we\u2019re doing next!<\/p>

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Mt Maude Chardonnay is 26 year old vines, dry grown and it\u2019s quite high up in the hill, about 380m. Kids Block is at the end, at 400. There\u2019s no big mountain behind it and when you\u2019re working it, it feels hotter up there. The Mangawera is running East-West and the Norwesters go straight over the top of us; really sheltered.<\/p>

The Maude Pinot Noir 2017 won \u201cWine of the Year\u201d at the Air NZ show, and it\u2019s been really good on a marketing front. It\u2019s like \u2018Car of the Year\u2019 or whatever \u2013 people do notice. It\u2019s worked really well for us. For 2018 we were a full month early \u2013 ridiculous. So the Pinots are a lot more approachable \u2013 there was no qualms about releasing it a few months earlier \u2013 once the \u201917 had walked out the door! 2019 we\u2019re back into normal Central territory again. We call it the Motherblend. We\u2019ve done two blending sessions now, and it just grows until it\u2019s the Maude. This \u201919 has a lovely perfume.\u00a0In the old days, it was that your Reserve wine had to be 40% new oak \u2013 sometimes 100% new oak. Hopefully we\u2019re going away from that mentality.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Do you prefer the cooler years?<\/p>

Dan<\/strong>: In Wanaka, the leaves change and you\u2019re picking at the end of April. Feels like you\u2019ve done a full season \u2013 tannins are ripe, just feels right. We go into that lovely 15 degrees during the day, 5 at night\u2026 the sugars slow right up. It\u2019s not like \u201cooh 26 brix, quick get it off\u201d\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve taken this step into writing specifically about New Zealand wines, partly because I think it\u2019s a really exciting time for it. If there was nothing much really happening, I think I would have just stuck to Tourism. But I do think we\u2019ve got a lot to say. I think Central Pinot is essential to that story \u2013 it\u2019s come of age…the style of the wine \u2013 the story of the wine, the labelling, the vine age \u2013 it\u2019s all coming into it\u2019s own.<\/p>

Dan<\/strong>: On the first day at the Pinot Celebration, Nigel Greening and I were talking, and reckon the vine age makes a big difference. And now – sites are becoming more important.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Are you moving towards Organics or Biodynamics?<\/p>

Dan<\/strong>: What holds us back at Mt Maude is the slope \u2013 it\u2019s 40 degrees, and it\u2019s terraced. So we can\u2019t cultivate it. Everyone will get there, we just have to figure out how to do it, for us. We\u2019re still trying to make the best wine possible \u2013 so quality is over that at the moment. At Mt Maude when we pull the weeds out, you can see the worms, and I think that\u2019s a good indication of the soil health. As you go down deeper there is some clay and the roots go down and find that; so that\u2019s why we can get away with being un-irrigated. Being Wanaka, we get the West Coast spill over \u2013 when it rains on the West Coast it comes down the lake a bit. So we get 600mm here, compared to 400 at Bannockburn. And we get it pretty evenly so it\u2019s almost two inches a month. That\u2019s probably why there\u2019s more trees around here than at the moonscape of Bannockburn!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m really thrilled with your new labelling \u2013 it\u2019s so cool. You\u2019re going to take over the world with this stuff.\u00a0<\/p>

Dan<\/strong>: These are the blends we\u2019re still working on \u2013 That\u2019s Mohawk Hill<\/strong>. That\u2019s the Lowburn one. When we start blending Maude \u2013 these vineyards are so different but they are only 15 minutes apart. This is out warmest site and it sits in the lee of SugarLoaf. And from when they were building the dam, it\u2019s still got a single strip of trees down it \u2013 and we look at it \u2013 hence the Mohawk.. The vineyard has soil, because the soil would have been blown down and settled there.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s got soil, so it can seriously ripen and it probably makes your typical Central fruit bomb. Sweet mid-palate, there\u2019s a lot of Clone 5 planted there, so it\u2019s warm and inviting with a mocha, chocolate too. We\u2019ve always blended it with Queensberry which is fifteen minutes up towards Wanaka, and 80 metres above it, in elevation, and we pick it ten days later. That\u2019s more linear structure \u2013 completely different aromatics, more blue fruits. Pisa fruit always has this lift of Aniseed I reckon. Queensberry is Poison Creek<\/strong> \u2013 lighter in structure.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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And when you blend them it\u2019s almost like putting a corset on the big fruit one. It pushes the middle in, and pushes it out the back. It\u2019s a great blend and it\u2019s why we so enjoy blending Maude. Structurally, putting it together is such fun. There\u2019s three of us \u2013 three winemakers. We\u2019ve got to walk away sometimes \u2013 just say, \u201cwe\u2019ll re-convene next week\u201d, when everyone\u2019s calmed down! It\u2019s really nice blending with three people. You have your choice, and you argue to hell about it, and then your blend goes up and it all gets mixed up. And in a big line-up you\u2019re not looking for yours, but you\u2019ve still got to say \u2018right, that\u2019s the best one\u2019 and you\u2019re hoping it\u2019s yours!<\/p>

Mt Maude Reserve<\/strong> is 70% whole bunch. We have to trim it by hand, with battery powered trimmers, because it\u2019s so steep, and we can\u2019t get a trimmer in like a normal vineyard. It\u2019s all up and over, working like that all day\u2026 heck.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Kid\u2019s Block<\/strong> is right at the top and there\u2019s six rows of it. At the time, Sarah-Kate\u2019s Mum and Dad had six grandkids, so it was always called Kid\u2019s Block and we kept the name. They are Dijon clones, all at the top. And we\u2019ve just in the last few years switched that over to dry grown too. It\u2019s not on its own roots, it\u2019s actually on rootstock, but just coming of age now. We don\u2019t do a whole lot of whole bunch with it. It\u2019s a bit more traditional.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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East Meets West<\/strong> \u2013 as the vineyard comes around the hill, the reserve wine comes from the middle. The west side, the roots have grown down and found a bit more water, so are a bit more vigorous. Historically they\u2019ve never gone into the reserve. East side cops all the morning light and not much of the afternoon. Those two parcels just used to just go into the Maude, but they\u2019re 26 year old dry-grown Pinot vines.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We put them together and we make it in a maceration style \u2013 start a fermentation in the bottom of our four-tonne fermenters. So all the hand-picked whole bunch fruit goes in, put the lid on, tape it up and walk away for three weeks. And the inter-cellular fermentation happens. At the end of three weeks \u2013 lid off – and our ten year olds get their mates and they come and stomp it. Press it off, into barrel and off to the warm room, because it\u2019s still got sugar in. So it\u2019s a ferment Beaujolais style \u2013 but it\u2019s the biggest Beaujolais you\u2019ve ever seen. It\u2019s a very polarising wine \u2013 people either love it or they hate it. As a young wine it\u2019s full of Turkish delight, bizarre aromatics that are so different. You\u2019ve got 100% stalks in there, so that\u2019s on the tannins\u2026 when we do the Maude, which is 200-odd barrels, we always do a couple of fermenters of this, and our next step for that Maude blend is to start to layer some of that in.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: What made you think to make it that way?<\/p>

Dan<\/strong>: We\u2019ve always made, for an Australian company called Innocent Bystander \u2013 their Central Otago Pinot that only really gets sold in America. They\u2019ve sold that brand on to Brown Brothers in Australia, but the winemaker, Steve Flamsteed, who won Winemaker of the Year a couple of years ago, has gone back to just their main brand which is Giant Steps in the Yarra.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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He would always come over, and when the brand was sold he said \u201cI still want to make wine with you guys\u201d so we got him a parcel that he could put under the Giant Steps label.<\/p>

This is very much inspired by his techniques.<\/em><\/strong><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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