{"id":10623,"date":"2024-04-12T06:25:28","date_gmt":"2024-04-11T18:25:28","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=10623"},"modified":"2024-04-12T06:25:28","modified_gmt":"2024-04-11T18:25:28","slug":"winemaker-series-matt-harrop","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=10623","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Matt Harrop"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Part of the first day of my trip through some of the wine regions of Victoria (Macedon, Heathcote, Yarra) sees me dropping in for a flying visit to Curly Flat<\/b> in Macedon. I\u2019m calling on Matt Harrop<\/b> – a New Zealander (and relation of Sam Harrop MW who I interviewed here > https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1667<\/a>) who is now the winemaker there. We start by having a very quick look at the vineyards, then diving into the winery to taste some samples.<\/p>

WineFolio<\/b>: How has it been for you guys here so far this year?<\/p>

Matt Harrop<\/b>: It\u2019s been a pretty whacky year for us. We are a cool place – we\u2019re at 550 metres above sea level. You work your way up from Melbourne and don\u2019t sort of realise that you\u2019re climbing the whole way. We had this La Nina system – the last of our La Nina years we think – so we knew it was going to be late. \u201923 is the coldest growing season we\u2019ve had on record, since 1992 when the vines were first planted.<\/p>

We\u2019ve got about 15 hectares under vines, starting with a block of Pinot Noir planted in 1992. Followed by Chardonnay in 1993; then at the top of the hill there\u2019s Pinot Noir from \u201995 and \u201996. What we refer to as our \u2018Western\u2019 plantings were in 1997 and \u201998. The big block in front of us was planted in 2000, and every year we\u2019ve progressively planted more. Historically it has been planted at\u00a0 <\/span>3.2 by 1.8 metres in a lyre trellis.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/b>: Oh, so like Kumeu River?<\/p>

MH<\/b>: In fact my first vintage was at Nobilo\u2019s so I knew Michael Brajkovich well, but haven\u2019t seen him for years. It\u2019s the only kiwi Chardonnay I buy. He\u2019s a wizard, a genius. When you look at how he\u2019s done it – and we\u2019ve spent a lot of time reading articles and looking at it\u2026 his lyre splits quite low and he\u2019s got an eighteen degree angle on his VSP. Whereas here they come higher to the point where they\u2019re coming back down a little bit, and they\u2019re vertical, and widely planted. Michael\u2019s are at 1.2, with four short canes. It\u2019s a great way to grow a lot of fruit if you\u2019ve got a lot of inputs, like water and fertiliser. We\u2019re around 700mms a year of rainfall, and he\u2019s probably double that.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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We are about 70% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Gris. There\u2019s a massive thirst for Pinot – especially in Melbourne. It\u2019s very parochial down there, and we have an advantage over most other winegrowers in Australia, as we can ripen Pinot. Adelaide Hills go on about it, but whatever\u2026 There\u2019s always one exception to any rule – and what Stephen George set up at Ashton Hills, is it. And that young guy, Liam van Pelt is a very clever guy. They\u2019re one of the highest there and they do make some lovely Pinot. Their issue down there is their latitude. We\u2019re at about 37 South, and they\u2019re about 35. We\u2019re about where Martinborough is. We\u2019re quite continental here – a long way from the sea. We farm very simply and have this mix of young and old vines. We shoot-thin in the Spring and there\u2019s a lot of natural crop control, because we are a frosty site.<\/p>

The winery was built in 2002, we farm sustainably here, but not organic. In a year like this, you hear stories from places like Heathcote where they haven\u2019t got fruit. We haven\u2019t used any herbicide here since 2006, and we like the effect we get from just mowing underneath the vines. That works for us – keeps the disease pressure down. We do get a bit of botrytis in the Chardonnay, but I don\u2019t think a little bit is a bad thing.<\/p>

I thought I\u2019d show you a couple of wines that we are just releasing? The Pinot Gris is a bit of tightrope between Sauvignon and Chardonnay for us. It\u2019s not just simple giggle juice. It\u2019s 30% whole-bunch, fermented on skins, kept separately and put it through malo. All through old wood and then blend those two parcels – the white wine and the pink wine – hence it\u2019s got a bit more colour. A little bit of phenolic, a little bit of extract – just to give a bit of interest. Makes it a little bit more food-friendly too. It is what it is – even people making great ones like Zind Humbrecht\u2026 give me a white Burgundy any day! I find myself saying \u201cyes, that\u2019s really good\u2026 where\u2019s the next bottle of white?\u201d<\/p>

With Chardonnay, the 2020, for us, was a very tough vintage. The east coast had fires, and Canberra, Hunter Valley as well – so a lot of smoke taint. We had a frost and really unsettled flowering, so low crops. We generally make 1200 dozen of Chardonnay, and we bottled 400 dozen in 2020. Same with the Pinot – bottled about half our usual. Coolish season, very dry but cool. These \u201820s are an anomaly in the Curly Flat story.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: I see some bigger oak formats around?<\/p>

MH<\/b>: We\u2019ve transitioned away from barriques. We\u2019re either hogsheads or puncheons. When I came here it was 100% barrique, and they can be quite invasive. They can be like a corset – especially in Pinot. You get a much more rapid oxidation in the barrel, and the oak is a lot more forceful. I really like the hogshead. It\u2019s an Australian size. 300 litres, they\u2019re easy to throw around. We\u2019re working hard to amplify our site here – a freshness of fruit is what we\u2019re chasing.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/b>: I\u2019m getting a touch of malolactic, but not sensing much battonage?<\/p>

MH<\/b>: Not a lot of malo in \u201920. We adjust the malo according to the season. This was about 30% of the barrels we put through malo. In \u201921 was about 50%. We also have to watch out for getting reductive I suppose. We\u2019re oxidative in the juice handling stage. We get quite reductive in both the Chardonnay and the Pinot. We settle overnight, but we\u2019re not adding any solids back. We probably got to barrel at about 200 NTU. Reduction has become a massive factor in Australian Chardonnay – and in New Zealand as well. I had a Nautilus Chardonnay from \u201917 or \u201918 – I was there for a couple of years before Clive, way back in the \u201890s. I went from Nautilus to Shadowfax over here.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/b>: Those reductive Chardonnays can be very hard though!<\/p>

MH<\/b>: I think the smart people are doing it because there\u2019s a little lack of flavour. Loads and loads of sulphide, heaps of solids, high-char wood, warm ferments.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: But they get accolades?<\/p>

MH<\/b>: They are, in Wine Shows. But I\u2019ve always had this thing you know – if a wine is a young, skinny, hard wine with reduction, then it\u2019s gonna be an old, skinny, hard wine.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: Sometimes they just get tougher as they age.<\/p>

MH<\/b>: I hate to say it but some of the people doing it best are the big guys like Penfold\u2019s. If you have a look at some of their top-end Chardonnays – the Yattarna for example, they do it really well. You\u2019ll be going to see Dave at Oakridge? Those are fantastic wines. Yes, there\u2019s a bit of reduction but they\u2019re built around flavour. They show we can grow flavour, and complexity, and richness over here.<\/p>

The \u201921 was the first of our La Nina vintages over here. Cooler but no rain in February at all. Then a big burst of heat in late March and into April. Almost a normal crop.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: That\u2019s quite a contrast – richer, with a lovely floral nose.<\/p>

MH<\/b>: As things are ripening, we go from citrus to white stonefruit to yellow stonefruit. We try to pick at that white stonefruit character. A bit more malo, just trying to relax the palate. Phenolics have been a really dirty word in Australian wines, but they can play a role in any white variety. That pithy finish is one of the things we like. Stylistically that\u2019s where Curly Flat has been for a while.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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With our geology, it is quite similar across the site – degraded basalt – but we\u2019ve got this 430-million year old devonian-era sands up here, which we found after a soil survey in 2019. Our \u2018Western\u2019 plantings have an easterly aspect – so morning sun. They don\u2019t get the afternoon sun, so the coolest slopes in the vineyard. Quite supple, textured, aromatic, and by 2018 we thought \u2018these look really different to everything else we\u2019ve got\u2019 and we now bottle the \u2018Western\u2019 individually. Initially a blend of two blocks and two different clones, in 2018 to 2020. And now, we\u2019ve got seven rows of clone 114 that we\u2019ll do separately.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u2018Central\u2019 is from the oldest vines in the place – MV6 clone from 1992. I really like MV6. They reckon James Busby brought it over from Clos du Vougeot in the 1830s. That\u2019s north-facing so it cops the afternoon sun. Much smaller berries and smaller bunch architecture. More tannin and very musky red fruit. There\u2019s a bit of it in NZ, but they don\u2019t like it over there. I think it\u2019s genetically modified itself over here, to suit what happens here.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Same can be said for Abel – I\u2019ve yet to try an Australian Abel wine where I\u2019ve gone \u2018well that\u2019s better than everything else\u201d. It works well in Martinborough but they\u2019re not such fans of it in Central Otago. That whole clonal thing is really interesting. I read and see about people who I respect in other parts of the world, where the clonal debate has taken a back seat. We\u2019ll be taking some cuttings from our 1992 MV6 and cultivating from that, to plant the place with.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/b>: So your own mass selection – taking the best from the best? And will you be doing high-density planting – like we\u2019ve just seen over at Bindi?<\/p>

MH<\/b>: Well I just think that after 30 years in the ground here, Pinot has this ability to adapt to site. I take my hat off to anyone, like Michael, who is doing that density of planting, but I see it fraught with all sorts of things. I have too many questions about it. There were cultural reasons why it occurred over in Burgundy. Winemaking, grape growing – it\u2019s a commercial pursuit. And it\u2019s expensive to put a vineyard in anyway, so three times more expensive to put a close-planted vineyard in. We\u2019re planting at 2.2 by 900, which we really like. Just because people do that in other parts of the world and amplify their part of the world – we can do that by using our own farming systems.<\/p>

You\u2019re tasting the Western Block here. \u2018Western\u2019 is about 80% whole bunch and no new oak. We deliberately mature that wine in 2nd, 3rd, 4th use oak. We started doing that after 2018. Tannin profile is softer and more supple. There\u2019s a bit more texture and it is slightly easier – higher pH. A bit of it is to do with the clone, but for me it\u2019s the soil. It\u2019s very aromatic and we don\u2019t get the colour and density. But we make this really bloody beautiful wine. I suppose it is the bookend of Curly Flat, where it\u2019s so atypical Curly Flat. Historically it has been quite tannic with beautiful ageing potential.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Philip used to bottle a wine called \u2018The Curly\u2019 which was a winemaking experiment. 100% whole bunch and a lot of new wood. He loved the wines of Domaine Dujac and he went down that track. We like what goes on underground and we\u2019d like to say that what we do in here (the winery) to be almost irrelevant in some regard. There\u2019s a big effort in the vineyard, like everyone that\u2019s serious about growing wine. Our fermenters are like every other fermenter on the planet. The only thing that we\u2019ve got that no-one else has\u2026 is this place.<\/p>

As a contrast – \u2018Central\u2019 – which has been the core of Curly Flat since the first vintage in 1998. MV6, 30% bunches, 30% new oak as well. These two wines are 120 dozen each. They\u2019re bottled I suppose as components and they\u2019re the same price. When we did release them for the first time, we had all those questions. \u2018Are they better, what do you like?\u2019 This one is a deeper colour and a denser fragrance, blacker fruit. So you have the bookends – the aromatic peak and the structural mid-palate depth.<\/p>

And our \u2018Estate\u2019 has parcels from everything – every part of the vineyard. We have a really good following – a high percentage of our sales go direct. And it is important to us that nothing interferes. The last thing we wanted to do was to come out and say \u2018You\u2019ve been buying Curly Flat for 14 years, but now here\u2019s a $100 bottle\u2019.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: This is what people are looking for in a Pinot Noir – generally. That\u2019s on the start of a really good journey. I still prefer the \u2018Western\u2019 personally. But that \u2018Estate\u2019 will have huge market appeal with that balance.<\/p>

MH<\/b>: I love asking the room at dinners and presentations – and no-one is wrong. We think there\u2019s enough difference in the fruit profile to justify the difference in the way we handle them. As opposed to making them the same way. We know, because we\u2019ve used new oak on this wine – that it just dominates the wine.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/b>: Along those lines – is there one thing that you wouldn\u2019t have done, if you could go again?<\/p>

MH<\/b>: Oh God, there\u2019s about 5000 things. I would have spent more time in the Northern Hemisphere sucking up a little bit of what they\u2019re doing there. I haven\u2019t done enough of that. Not a flying winemaker job. Just going in and talking to people – like you\u2019re doing here today. We\u2019ve got access to a lot of wine over here now, but things were different twenty years ago.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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From a winemaking point of view – maybe wouldn\u2019t have farmed in Heathcote for ten years, like I did at Shadowfax. I\u2019m glad I\u2019ve got regrets about what I have done, rather than what I haven\u2019t done. With regards to Curly Flat, one thing we will do is slowly converting things over to VSP. Whether we top-work stuff like we\u2019ve done in the past and re-trellis. It is a ten-year project.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Stepping back a year and looking at a wine from 2020\u2026 one of the things we love about the \u201820s is that they talk a little bit more about the earth rather than the sky. One of the massive limiting factors in this part of the world is that big orange ball in the sky. It\u2019s a strong influence. If there\u2019s one thing that can obscure where a grape is from, it is too much sun. The 2020 is savoury tannins,\u00a0 <\/span>more earthy and quite reserved. We think there is a Curly Flat theme. One of the things that shits me about the Aussie industry is that our \u201cmost important producers\u201d – The Penfolds of the world are actively working to persuade people that vintage variation doesn\u2019t exist. The rest of us think it\u2019s really important to say to people that wine is not the same every single time. That\u2019s part of the pleasure of it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Part of the first day of my trip through some of the wine regions of Victoria (Macedon, Heathcote, Yarra) sees me dropping in for a flying visit to Curly Flat … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10630,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10623","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series: Matt Harrop - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=10623\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: Matt Harrop - 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