{"id":10127,"date":"2024-02-01T07:00:48","date_gmt":"2024-01-31T18:00:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=10127"},"modified":"2024-02-01T07:00:48","modified_gmt":"2024-01-31T18:00:48","slug":"pinot-day-the-2015-vintage","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=10127","title":{"rendered":"\u2018Pinot Day\u2019 – the 2015 vintage"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Again – an invite that I am always grateful for, if it is extended\u2026 and I am quick to arrange that I can attend; is to the annual unveiling of a carefully curated box of Pinot Noir by Curt Thomas<\/b>. The \u2018guru of Pinot\u2019 puts together a set of wines from each vintage on the year of release and hides them away in his cellar for eight years. Then, on one special day, he opens them all in a day-long feast of epic proportions\u2026 eight years on. In the company of a privileged invited few, and accompanied by the most delicious food – that everyone contributes to. It is hands-down the most informative and downright enjoyable session on wine that I attend in any given year. See here for last year\u2019s session on the 2014 vintage – www.winefolio.co.nz\/?p=7696.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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2023 was a shocker of a year, and this is a welcome start to what I hope will be a less-troubled and more stable twelve months. We\u2019re presented with a collection of wines from the 2015 vintage – all the wines are from the same year. Today there are wines from across the globe – taking in Burgundy, Argentina, Australia\u2019s Mornington Peninsula and wines from New Zealand\u2019s main Pinot-growing areas.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

The vintage in France started well, with early flowering in a dry and warm Spring. Weather remained ideal and harvest was early. Stephen Tanzer suggested that \u201cIn terms of their consistent quality and broad appeal, 2015 will be a difficult vintage to top\u201d. The Mornington Peninsula also had a great vintage, with a \u201cperfect growing season, one of the vintages of the decade\u201d according to Decanter magazine. In New Zealand Rebecca Gibb calls it \u201ca vintage of quality not quantity\u201d – nationally yields were down by 27%.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Here are my thoughts on each of the wines with a few highlights\u2026<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Bodega Colome \u2018Lote Especial\u2019, Valle Calchaqui, Salte, Argentina<\/b>. A wine from a particularly high altitude vineyard – the \u2018Altura Maxima\u2019. At 3000 metres high – compare that to the higher vineyards in the Awatere Valley (like the next wine) in Marlborough at around 450 metres. A very perfumed nose with a striking \u2018candy store\u2019 note – like opening a bag of lollies. Also a slather of earthy notes strikes a contrast to liquorice and cassis flavours. Medium-bodied, with supple tannin. A very good start. 95pts<\/b><\/p>

Clos Marguerite, Awatere Valley, Marlborough<\/b>. A wine where the New World meets the Old World. Very New Zealand fruitiness, with a European profile and structure. Savoury edge of red pepper, salami, with some balsam as well. Powerful, with oak quite firmly showing plus and a salty acidity. Complex and very characterful. 94pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Hans Herzog \u2018Grand Duc\u2019, Marlborough<\/b> is a selection of what Hans considers to be the \u201cbest blocks\/rows from a particular soil type of a particular vintage picked at the tiniest yield\u201d Red notes of cranberry, with greener parts of herbs and menthol come through on the nose. Polished and concentrated on the palate – still a baby, with a plucky acidity. There\u2019s a simplicity and calmness through the palate. More savoury at the smooth finish. Years to go with this yet. 95pts<\/b><\/p>

Thierry Violot-Guillemard \u2018Les Reugnes\u2019 Auxey-Duresses, 1er Cru, Burgundy<\/b> presents a pretty, freshness in the glass. A little shy but quite fine and precise into the palate. Blackcurrant, cherry sorbet and a ripe fruit sweetness come through. Gradually turning more textural as it comes out of its shell – and although the finish is still austere, there is a fine balance and a good linearity. 95pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Two wines come from Corofin – the Corofin \u2018Settlement – East Slope\u2019, Marlborough<\/b> has a lovely strawberry creme chocolate aroma, mixed with kirsch, morello cherry and toasted spices. The palate is kick-started with a juicy, tart acidity and tannin is fine and powdery, in a supporting role. Even, well-balanced and quite succulent. 92pts<\/b>. Then the Corofin \u2018Churton Clod Block\u2019, Marlborough<\/b> takes a step up. A luxurious, complex beastie, showing some lovely oak char and quite grippy tannin. Quite full, immediate and attention-grabbing. There\u2019s a gritty minerality to the spine, and some intriguing tarragon and butterscotch flavours at the long finish. 93pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mark Haima \u2018Paux Bois; Volnay, Burgundy<\/b> is made by and Aussie (who, for a decade was at Yarra Yering) working as a negociant in Burgundy since 2009 – renting space and buying grapes. Some whole-bunch spicy perfume and with a very dry, almost dusty edge to the palate. Well structured, with oak, briney acidity and a chalky minerality. The wine is subtle – simple almost – and the finish is the same – long and balanced. 93pts<\/b><\/p>

Valli \u2018Gibbston\u2019 Central Otago<\/b> shows the very best of this well-regarded New Zealand Pinot pioneer. In a good year, Gibbston is their flagship, and this is very, very good. The nose is sensuously fragrant. A bloody ripeness follows. Redcurrant, elderberry, cocoa and spice galore, but a real unison to the marriage of layers. This has a strut and presence, and it stood out in this line up (so far). 96pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Ren\u00e9 Bouvier \u2018Clos du Roy\u2019 Marsannay, Burgundy<\/b>. With the growth in prices across the region, a lot of people who could once afford the top Crus are looking for value in areas that were previously lesser-known. Marsannay received its Appellation in 1987, and Clos du Roy is probably the best-regarded vineyard. Beetroot, blueberry cherry and floral aromas of violet and rose petal. A crunch and pleasant robustness to the fruit, with a raw power to the palate. Oak adds smoke and spice develops, with savoury and mineral layers revealing themselves. 96pts<\/b><\/p>

Burn Cottage, Lowburn, Central Otago. <\/b>Has a subtlety on the nose that disguises a firm power in the palate. Lavender and thyme sit above dark fruit and wider ranging notes of red apple, sappy herbs, fennel and incense. Minerality, chalky tannin and piquant acidity. One of the most complex wines so far, yet with a quieter voice. The finish is smooth and textural. 94pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Gachot Monot \u2018Poulettes\u2019 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru, Burgundy<\/b>. A fine \u2018French Pinot\u2019 perfume, with bags of varietal personality. Savoury meets ripe fruit. Blueberry, cranberry and cherry with autumn leaves and a touch of pickled, smoky mushroom. Super-fine tannin, smoky oak and juicy acidity all combine and interact in the backbone of the palate. The fruit bleeds through, balancing out and cocooning the edgier flavours. The finale brings the elements together in a harmonic, svelte fashion. Very elegant but characterful. 96pts<\/b><\/p>

Mammoth, Moutere Hills, Nelson<\/b>. A very savoury nose – distinctive and robust. Inky, smoky and prickly. This moves beyond \u2018structure\u2019 into \u2018architecture\u2019! A natural, un-polished wildness through the palate. Herbal, umami (soy), tart cherry and wood smoke all feature in my notes. A rich, full throttle finish to a very interesting expression of Pinot. I don\u2019t hate it but I\u2019m not sure what to make of it. 93pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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A pair of wines from Prophet\u2019s Rock follow. Prophet\u2019s Rock \u2018Home Block\u2019 Bendigo, Central Otago<\/b> by contrast is a clean, lean and ethereal entry. A vibrant energy steals through the palate, showing a structure elegance – bracing acidity and fine, supple tannin. Fruit in the raspberry, blood orange spectrum, but still ripe and aromatic. Still seems quite youthful and evolving. Come back in five more years? Also 93pts<\/b>, for very different reasons. Prophet\u2019s Rock \u2018Cuv\u00e9e aux Antipodes\u2019 Bendigo, Central Otago<\/b> is a rarer wine – made by French legend Fran\u00e7ois Millet – from Domaine de Vogue in Chambolle-Musigny. The extraction here is even lighter than the Home Block expression, but does see longer in oak. Floral, medium-bodied, open and expansive. Spices of cassia bark, anise and woody herbs are soaked in ripe cherry and boysenberry fruits. The acidity is key here – linear and athletic, driving the wine on to a lingering, spicy and succulent finish. 95pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Martinborough Estate \u2018Home Block\u2019 Martinborough<\/b> continues to make Pinot so \u2018Martinborough-like\u2019 that they must have written the recipe. The perfume is so varietally spot-on, with cherry, black olive, pepper, liquorice, salami and earthiness. There\u2019s a note of marmite right from the aroma to the finish. The only things that sticks out in a simple, uncomplicated structure is the chewy tannin. 92pts<\/b><\/p>

Ata Rangi, Martinborough<\/b> shows us a style as far from the \u2018fruit bomb\u2019 type of NZ Pinot Noir as you will find. The balanced perfume does hold that classic Martinborough roasted meat and \u2018sous bois\u2019 forest floor savouriness, but there is also the delicacy of peppered strawberries, macerated cherry and cherry danish (to borrow some foodie flavour descriptions). A carefully crafted wine of delicacy and coiled energy, with nuance and seduction rather than blunt power and concentration. The palate (and finish) is dry, linear and smooth. 95pts<\/b><\/p>

Scorpo, Mornington Peninsula, Australia<\/b> comes from a part of Victoria that I\u2019ve been keen to visit – but then you can add several sub-regions of this fascinating State to that list, despite my visit last Easter. Here, the fruits are plush, crunchy and with a lightness set off by an appealing line of acidity. Quite bold, with weight and depth in the palate that shows off some elongated tannins and smoky oak. Still some puppy fat in this one – years to go. 95pts<\/b><\/p>

Greenhough \u2018Hope\u2019 Nelson<\/b> also shows a youthful pop of fruit – remember these wines are eight years old – peppery and spiced. Cherry cola, pomegranite, tomato leaf, plum and rhubarb. Very well integrated tannin and oak allows that bright, ripe fruit to shine. 92pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Yabby Lake \u2018Block 6\u2019 Mornington Peninsula, Australia<\/b> is another wine from this region with a reputation for making some of the Southern Hemisphere\u2019s best Pinot. The talents of winemaker Tom Carson has produced a perfume is hedonistically bright and spicy. A whack of whole bunch winemaking I wonder? The start is high-toned, but then turns \u2018slow and low\u2019 with a slinky texture and a tapestry of plum sauce, dark chocolate, chinotto and cardamom. Good characterful wine. 94pts<\/b><\/p>

Pegasus Bay \u2018Prima Donna\u2019 Waipara<\/b> starts with a bang. The most expressive richness to any perfume here so far. Power-packed and making a statement – it reminds you of how \u2018grand\u2019 some of New Zealand\u2019s Reserve Pinots are. A wine for some roasted proteins and maybe a cigar afterwards. The palate has a hurly-burly weight, a firmness and a sumptuous texture. Oak, tannin, ripeness, zesty acid – it is all there. Will last for another decade, and possibly offer a little more integration and calmness then? 94pts<\/b><\/p>

Rippon \u2018Tinker\u2019s Field\u2019 Wanaka, Central Otago<\/b> is one example where you just think \u2018this is ready now\u2019. Often we think about what a wine will look like in a certain length of time in the future – or whether it is past the best. This impresses right now. Medium-bodied at most, but what it lacks in heaviness it carries in finesse and subtlety. Vibrant fruit, a complex structure that is tight and quietly firm, and with a zesty, saline acidity. Super. 95pts<\/b><\/p>

Bouchard \u2018Les Caillerets, Ancienne Cuv\u00e9e Carnots\u2019 1er Cru, Volnay, Burgundy<\/b> has an even-handed balance and polish as well as some quite intriguing elements (according to my notes). Bubblegum, pot pourri, spring flowers, black tea and fine tannins. Plush and even into a lingering finish. 92pts<\/b><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Again – an invite that I am always grateful for, if it is extended\u2026 and I am quick to arrange that I can attend; is to the annual unveiling of … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":10156,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-10127","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine","category-wine-review-by-winefolio"],"yoast_head":"\n\u2018Pinot Day\u2019 - the 2015 vintage - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=10127\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u2018Pinot Day\u2019 - 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